I returned to Salamanca early this morning from my first adventure outside of northern Spain -- a weekend in Granada. As some of you may know, the main attraction of Granada is the Alhambra, a palace and fortress that was constructed in the 14th century for the last of the Muslim emirs and the Nasrid Dynasty. The final stronghold of Al-Andalus, Granada fell to the reconquest of Spain by the Catholic Monarchs in 1492. However, Alhambra continued to serve as a symbol Spanish power as King Charles V destroyed parts of the fortress and constructed his own palace there in 1527.
My tour through Alhambra was without a doubt the highpoint of my trip to Granada. The incredible decorative detail and scope of the palace was mind blowing. One of the most interesting aspects of the visit to me was the juxtaposition of the Alhambra fortress with Charles V's palace. At times, it seemed almost haunting to me that his palace stood there in the middle of the fortress -- smugly, unquestioningly, defiantly. I think it says a lot about Spain's own historical memory of its Muslim past and the reconquest. Despite the overwhelming magnificence of the Alhambra, there lurked the uncanny embodiment of a museum, of a culture forcibly removed, leaving only crystalized footprints behind.
I still have a lot of processing to do about my visit to Granada as I continue to wrestle with my experiences of Spain's historical memory. One thing is for sure -- the visit was unforgettable and I consider myself unbelievably lucky to say that I've seen Alhambra with my own eyes.
| Yours truly - Alhambra Royal Complex - The Court of the Myrtles (Palacios Nazaríes - Patio de los Arrayanes) 14th century |
| Patio of the Court of the Lions, main court of the Nasrid dynasty, lies at the heart of Alhambra Palacio de los Leones, 14th century |
| View of Alhambra from the Mirador de San Nicolas Located on top of the hill of Moorish Albyzín neighborhood |
I've been to Granada--maybe 18 years ago. I can't remember if it was Granda or Sevilla in which I got lost wandering around the city looking for a farmacia for something to cure my terrible runs. Despite what I'd read in "Lets Go Spain!" I should not have, in fact, drunk the water.
ReplyDeleteGreat blog, Abby. Sounds like you're having a terrific experience. Love the picture of you and Carol. Wish I could say I'd meet you under the clock in the plaza!