Lunes de Aguas

Hola! 

For my 21st birthday, I got a surprise visit from my mother! I am completely confident in saying that this was the best gift EVER. Plus, her timing couldn't have been better. We were able to celebrate a uniquely Salamancan tradition together - Lunes de Aguas. 

Lunes de Aguas, which literally translates to "water Monday," traditionally occurs the monday following Easter Sunday. During the 16th century, Philip II decreed that the prostitues of Salamanca (of which there were PLENTY as it was an all male University town...) be sent to the other side of the river Tormes for Lent. Organized by the University students, Lunes de Aguas celebrated the return of the prostitutes to the city of Salamanca. The students organized huge welcoming parties where they enthusiastically helped the priest who was in charge of transporting the prostitutes, in crossing them over the river. The rest of the day was spent eating, drinking and celebrating along the banks of the river. 

Hornazo - traditional Salmancan food for Lunes de Aguas.
The dough is stuffed with pork loin, chorizo and egg.
It is eaten especially during this festival because the indulging by
eating tons of meat/pork products harmonizes with the celebration of the
imminent indulgence that comes along with the return of the prostitutes... 

Today only the second part of the tradition remains. Everyone goes down to the river for a picnic and spends the day lazing about in a state of joy and merriment. The hilarity of this holiday - for which businesses in Salamanca actually close, mind you - was one of my favorite experiences here. I'm incredibly glad that my mom was here to share it with me. 

The University scene of Lunes de Aguas -
down by the river Tormes and Roman bridge 

The Plaza Mayor

Holaaaa,

When learning about baroque architecture in my Salamanca art/literature class my professor said something along the lines of the following:

"For many centuries, the Plaza Mayor has served as the central meeting place and hub of activity in Salamanca."

Here are just a few snapshots of the truth of that statement as I have lived it over the past few months -- 

1. Meeting new friends
Through language exchanges, the local theater group I participate in and meeting friends of friends, I have been very fortunate to make several Spanish friends throughout my time in Salamanca. Almost without fail, we make plans to meet up under the clock of the Plaza Mayor. As my host mother Candelas says, "Todos de Salamanca se reúnen debajo del reloj en la Plaza Mayor... ¡TODOS!" [Everyone from Salamanca meets under the clock of the Plaza Mayor...EVERYONE!]

Nos quedamos en la plaza, debajo del reloj
[Let's meet up in the plaza, under the clock]

2. Protests of the General Strike
This past Thursday, all over Spain general strikes took place in protest of the government's austerity measures. Although the protests in Salamanca were relatively calm (especially compared to cities like Madrid and Barcelona) the Plaza Mayor was packed with protesters throughout the day. Signs reading UGT and CCOO, two of Spain's largest labor unions, flooded the Plaza.

Main protest -- General Strike of March 29, 2012 

3. Semana Santa Processions
Today I went with Candelas to watch the first processions of Semana Santa (Holy Week). At first it struck me as ironic that just a few days ago I stood in the Plaza packed with protestors/strikers and today it was almost filled to capacity with spectators of the religious processions of Palm Sunday. Then I realized that this exactly is the point of the Plaza Mayor, that it is truly meant to serve all purposes of the community.

Domingo de Ramos (Palm Sunday) children's procession

Domingo de Ramos -- Procesión de la Borriquilla

 4. Meeting old friends
If you're lucky enough and you happen to be in Salamanca at the right time, you just might find a special someone who you know way from the other side of the ocean waiting for you in the Plaza Mayor. Here's to meeting old friends in new places!

Carol Platt and I reunite in the Plaza Mayor
(Photo courtesy of Dylan Keller Benson)

Un abrazo (a hug!)
Abby